Day 7 Glenuig to Broadford

I woke early. I had had a great sleep. The evening had gone well. I met a couple from Cornwall, Mark and Melaney. Melaney owns Wreckers restaurant at Charlestown St Austell. Mark was peaved I had got the last room but they were in a campervan and were hoping to have a treat after enjoying some quality food and wine. Wreckers is also a seafood specialist and Melaney was keen to see what the Glenuig could do. We shared a table and had a good blether. The barman asked them if they had a copy of the guide 'Go for it' i think it was. A campervan and motorhome guide to hotels and restaurants that allow you to stay overnight in the car park - for free. Great idea, and participating businesses get their details published for free!

Next morning bike gear problems were on my mind and so tools in hand I went round to the shelter to examine the gear shifter and cable before breakfast. In a few minutes I found the cable was frayed and totally jammed in the shifter. Thats it, I needed to get to Mallaig to a cycle shop. I tidied up leaving the gear fixed in 4th. I could use the crank rings to have 3 different gears, any steep hills would need a dismount and push. Its 16 miles but do-able.

At breakfast the chef suggested I get the train at Lochailort to the Fort. Brill idea, why did I not think of that. The train was at 1020 so I had 90 mins to do 8 miles. No probs, got there with 20 mins to spare but handy to have the time in case of a flat tyre. I did have to get off and push but only for 50 yds. It was right at the junction of the Mallaig to Fort road, with a very short steep approach. This was the first push, i had even managed the Bougallie on Arran, oh well it was going to happen.

Good news! Got the cable replaced. Bad news, lost my wallet and did not realise until sitting on the return train at 1615. Jumped off and went on a wallet search. I went back to all the places i had been and last call, success! I had dropped it as I left Tesco Express in the high street. Thank you to whoever handed it in! My faith in humanity has been restored.

No more trains tonight so off to Glen Nevis Hostel to see if a bed is available. Got there just after 5pm and got last room! A private room no less and I took the option of having the hostels cooked breakfast. I needed a treat after the stresses of wallet hunting.

I had picked up a meal at the Tesco express so headed to find the kitchen after sorting out my wet stuff and getting a shower. Met a guy from Brussels who had also been at Toberymory hostel and another guy, Andrew from Brighton, a teacher, and the three of us had an enjoyable evening exchanging stories. The hostel was full, a party of 63 czech teenagers and staff, all well behaved but boy can they generate a lot of noise just talking.

Right then, keen to get back on the road, I got my breakfast and was heading back to FW rail station. The train to Mallaig was at 0830, it was 0815 and a few folk were gathered at the barrier to the platform. Another crowd were patiently waiting at the seated area and myself in the entrance lobby, all eyeing the staff to see if they were going to lift the tape barrier for platform 2 to allow us to board the train sitting there, motors already running. 0820, 0823, still no sign of staff, only the ticket office employee. Well I thought, this is the locals winding up the tourists to see who will break first and come and ask if we can board the train. 0825 and a little man, not in uniform but smartly dressed in shirt and tie and body warmer, came out of a door behind me and entered concourse. "You can get on the train" says he. Someone at the barrier says, " the barrier is here".

The gent says," the barrier is open" pointing to the platform one end of the tape. To be fair the tape was lined up across platform 2 entrance only but this was where the Mallaig train was. Platform one was empty. 

People shuffled forward but still unsure about getting around the barrier. The official turned to haed for his office and as he passed I said " excuse me but the barrier is down for platform 2".

With that he gave me a look I have not seen since I got the belt from a maths teacher, read as ' you insolent child'. He repeated emphasising each syllable," the barrier is open".

Well I could have said something but chose not to, the way my luck was running that would have been pushing it.

One hour later I was alighting at Loch Ailort, this is a request stop, make sure you tell the guard you want off here.

Day 6 Tobermory to Glenuig (ctd)

Returning to Kilchoan, i missed a cafe sign i had seen on way out. Too late not going back uphill.
Went tothe hotel , sign outside say tea coffee cake. Yes. No we dont do cake as it does not keep, err no we dont do toasties either. Hmm scottish hospitality from 40 years ago. However you can go to the Community Centre, they have cakes and toasties. Ok great.

Road past it twice as no sign and looked like it was the sse office ( a sign for this but diff building)
Ok toasty to come, cakes- none today but a rockyroad was taken.
Fuel taken, back to the road.

Very quickly the road heads uphill and keeps going up. The views get better though and soon the watershed is reached. The wind is still behind and this also keeps the midges away. A couple miles of gentle ups and downs and then a long way down. Woohoo. Sadly sheep are a hazard and are fairly unimpressed at the sound of an approaching cycling banshee - wooooohoooo get off the rooooaaad, bell ringing and load shouts get carried off in the wind. The sheep look up with an ' am i bovered' look, and no they not. A big van is coming so i prudently wait in a passing place, the driver waves a hand of thanks, he is not a whitevanman.

A few tourists are stopped at a great viewpoint but i keep going watching out for the four-legged ones enjoying some freedom. Ben Hiant looms up to the northwest and a stunning view looks west to Coll over loch Sunart. An even steeper decent now and still doing 45kph i wave to two cyclists heading up the way. Poor guys, if only they knew the long gradient they were about to enjoy!

A tearoom sign! Its the Natural History Centre at Glenmore bay. Part of this is the octagonal loghouse from the Glasgow garden festival. I go in and have soup and cake. There is some nice music playing so i record it on my phone, back home i discover it is the MacDonald brothers with Celtic Mantra. Find it on youtube and see if it agrees.
Back on the road I am soon passing Glenborrodale castle. Fleeting glimpses of loch Sunart are visible through the trees to my right, it is so peaceful here. Still a good wind to help me and its a quick ride to Salen. A wee shop, and its a cafe too, the Jetty Cafe, ok some supplies needed. A concrete ramp at the door offers a good parking site on the carpark side that will not bother anyone. Its been raining for a while now so I decide to have a tea and err.... another piece of cake. (I am getting quite good MPC today, (miles per cake))

Had a nice chat with the owner but was conscious I still had a few miles to get to Glenuig. Setting off, from sea level, there is a snappy uphill to the T-junction and then left to head north. Another hill but rain seems to be lighter now. Over the top and Acharacle is reached and gone. The road meanders around a nice coast here, there are trees and shrubs and the wider road means I can share with cars again. Only 3+ Km to Glenuig hotel and hopefully a nice room and shower and more refuelling, yes and wait for it, don't you already know that there is still One More Hill ! Near the start the gear change makes an unhappy noise but happily I am in gear one as its a 10% gradient. Reaching the top the shifter refuses to offer a higher gear but no matter it is downhill all the way to the front door. I coast to the gate and lean the bike against the wall. Made it, now to see if I can get in.

Yes! Got the last room and a shelter for the bike behind. Its still wet, the wind has died now and the wee devils are out. The bike maintenance can wait until tomorrow.

Day 5 Oban to Tobermory.

Aimed for the 0930 ferry as wet weather forecast for late morning. My bike was being admired in the car deck by a guy from a motorhome. He asked lots of wuestions so sounds like he was serious about it.
Craignure was jumping, i just heDed out and got on my way. Stopped for a break halfway and took inviews. Then spots of rain, it was 1130! Light rain then some showers. Head fown and got into Tobermory about 1 pm.
It has not really changed in 35 years. Disappointing. A lot of new build up the hill though.
Got some food in a Gallery which was in an old church hall. Should have listened to my inner voice telling me not to bother.  The bakery cafe was stowed out, 😐 but could not wait toget a seat.
The hostel was open and a couple folk in lounge so got the kettle on and found 'free' milk in fridge.
Chatted to Colin about cycle touring and the usual cycle component do's and dont's.
It was busy, a full dorm and on a top bunk for once. Prefer lower. Got some food out the coop and chatted to colin and jim. Great evening.

Day 6
( sorry cant cutandpaste to new day now)

Next morning Jim was up early, did not hear him. Heard Colin at 6 so i got up at 630 as wide awake.
In kitchen jim and colin were chatting at table at window while at opposite end of kitchen was Barbara who had locked herself out of her dorm dressed only in pyjamas! She could laugh about it tho was embarrrassed. I joined the boys with a cuppa and she went to the lounge. 0715 said farewell to the lads who were getting the 0730 ferry. I got the 0920.

It was cold and drizzly waiting for the ferry but met Marcus and Halley who were cyclecamping. 9 motorbikes in queue and got chatting to 2 from Belgium. They told me about Nicky Hayden's death
and also of Manchester incident. I was speechless.  At kilchoan we wished each other well and set off on our endeavours. I turned left and headed for The Lighthouse. A few good hills and 1 hr later i was
there. Pics done, not much else to do but head back.

Day 4 Arran to Oban

Sunday morning the first ferry was at 930, half the hostel was going to be on it so i got up early to get into the kitchen first. Good plan as mayhem ensued later. A cycling club from Falkirk were there and a good banter flowed. As the time came to leave the hostel it started to rain. Amad panic then as wTerproofs came out. I didn't bother with the overtrousers and the rain soon backed off. Its a small ferry but takes a good number of vehicles.
On the Tarbert side the cars got off first which was ok as it meant the cyclists didnt have the cars squeezing past on the single track. A wee bit of uphill then a larger one, however the gradient was not too bad or i must be a bit fitter. A long downhill follows which can be a challenge when its wet. Tarbert tearooms were next destination and a nice cup of tea.
Its a pull out of Tarbert but once on the level i made good progress. Lovely views out over loch fyne. Coming into Ardrishaig spotted a tearoom but it looked very basic. Carried on to Lochgilphead and found the Smiddy. Istro, highly recommended. Back on the road and after only two miles take the quiet road along crinan canal, then north up to Kilmartin.  Feeling good decided to press on to Oban. Traffic very sporadic but with a good wind behind ( no comments please) it made sense to take the advantage. I wondered if there wS somefooty on tele as road was very quiet  
Got to 5 miles south of Oban and my tank reached empty. Stopped at a bnb but would nt let room as a single, even at 5pm on a sunday. I refused to pay and this gave me boost to get to Oban. 1805 and checked in to hostel. Sorted.

Day 3 Ayr to Lochranza

Fairwells said, it was back on to familiar tracks to Prestwick, Troon and on to Ardrossan for the ferry.
Near Irvine, clouds again and this time it was enough to put on overtrousers. 5 mins later they were off sgain as the rain just went away! 100m later i was cycling on very wet roads that looked like a monsoon had dropped. I had escaped it again.
I could see Arran was getting a downpour as i meandered along as i had plenty time. Just as i was coming off the esplanade path at Saltcoats i found myself horizontal on the ground. Fortunately no damage and only a couple small cuts as i was going dlow. Checking the path it was like ice but no sign of deisel or oil but something slippy was there. Some teenagers came to help which was nice but it was mostly my pride that hurt.
Only 2 miles to go but suddenly found time was getting tight. As i got to the traffic lights to turn left for the ferry i asked a local if there was a Coop or Spar mearby. Well i think the Coop is down there , pointing the other way.  I headed down there but no sign. I was only wanting a couple of food items in case there was no shop at Lochranza, tho I would still have Brodick too. Turning back disappointed, and just after crossing the lights again here is a huge Asda!! Hmm, i did not ask the right question did I.
Very conscious of time and still having tickets to buy i nipped in to Asda and got a pasta meal as insurance. Better safe than hungry is my moto.

Brodick was jumping. Turns out it was the Arran hill race, Goat Fell and back. There were many red faced and tired drookit runners coming back as i headed north out of Brodick. The road was wuiet and the sun was now coming out. A few open topped vintage cars roared past. Lovely sight.

After 5 miles I stoped at a picnic tabled view point and refuelled. An elderly local heading north as well cut in to say hello. He happily asked if i was doing the booglay? What?? The booglay, the hill. Where are you going says he. Lochranza. Yes you'll be doing it then he says with a wry smile.  Its over 600 feet. WHAT ? Yes its true. The. Bougillie is a nice hill on the way to the north end. I just made it standing on the pedals. Phew it is tough. The good part is the downhill 👍

Day2 to Ayr

It sure is windy here hence the reason for the huge windfarms on the hills near the coast. My trip takes me through New Luce then across to Barrhill following the line of the Stranraer railline. It was very quiet on this single track and time to take in the wildlife. From Barrhill ot was a busy road so i scooted along, mostly downhill, to my turnoff to Dailly. Another quiet stretch then a welcome shop in Dailly for a toasty and energy bars.
Rain was threatening and the warm air grew chilly, a sure sign. The clouds rolled across. But somehow i only got the edge of it. Next Dalrymple, familiar roads now, then soon off the busy commuter roads to a cycle route.
I was looking for a bnb coming into Ayr but no luck. I headed for the beach cafe i knew, hoping there was some cake left. Arrived at 1605 to find the waitress leaving and the manager cleaning the floor. Luckily they did me a tea and i sat along beside the carpark to savour it. Not for long though, rain again so i put the cup in a bottle holder and headed up a toad awayfrom the beach. It is strange how these things happen but turning a couple of corners I found a bnb, sorted.
I texted the support team to see if she fancied a night away and she did.
So two hours later we were sat with some wine and food. Another perfect day.
Mileage today 60.

First days.

The recent good weather looked like it was going to continue for another 10 days so i decided to take the plunge and set off on the Scottish End to End. I had already looked at route options and was keen to do one involving some of the islands, hopefully this might get me some quieter roads to cycle.

Day 1
Early start to catch the 08.08 from Glasgow Central to Stranraer. Left the house at 0645 and cycled in via the canal. Nipped up to asda at the Briggs- shut! Opens 0830, what? Got a tesco express and collected a few food items for the journey.
Its 2h 45m to Stranraer from Glasgow  and from Ayr the train was very quiet. Arriving i was feeling peckish so topped up with a toasty and huge hot chocolate, sitting out front of cafe in Stranraer. Good start.

Last year i had cycled from Ayr to Stranraer so had a good idea where i was heading. The sun was blazing straight into my face as i headed south. There was a bit of a breeze also in my face but then it would assist on the route north. The main road was fairly quiet but progress felt slow, I had not really trained with a decent weight and the legs were grumbling.

The usual formula was applied (stop every hour for 5 mins and keep eating) and I reached the Southernmost point of Scotland at 2pm, taking two and a half hours for the 23 miles. Not bad really. On the way a guy rode past me and we chatted for a few minutes. Steve was training for a huge cycle challenge, so today he was aiming for 130 miles. Yesterday he did 140! Respect. He sped off and i felt like i was standing still, you have to smile and concentrate on your own rhythm.

The final half mile to the point is uphill, and a decent hill too. Never mind it means you get a flying start for the return. The views are amazing and worth getting a clear day to appreciate. The cafe was calling, more fuel required, and so a very nice bacon and egg roll was dealt with while enjoying an amazing view from the panoramic windows.

The wind was now behind me and i made good time, however my legs were getting tired as were other areas so i knew i would be calling it a day at 36 miles. This tied in nicely at the Tigh na Mara hotel at Sandhead. A room was taken and a huge plate of roast beef.
All in all a very good first day.
Todays mileage 36.

Day 2.
Sandhead to Ayr.
Good start with the Full Scottish.
Sped off then realised too fast. 4 miles of warm up then the first hills.